Page 4 - Weekly highlights 6705

IV

Weekly highlights

A tale of the caftan

Beyond communities

View of the exhibition at the Musée de la Parure in Rabat. A single garment with regional specificities (Ph. FNM) Embroidery detail on a Judeo-Moroccan
UX fils du caftan maro-
«A cites gold-embroidered garments, caftan worn by the bride. A beautiful
Moroccan-Andalusian heritage
cain» ( A tale of the caf-
with taffeta, wool, stiff silk, and
(Private photo)
tan) is the new exhibition
at the Musée national de la parure les stripes. The sultans of the Marinid THE quintessential ceremo-
dynasty also sent luxurious garments
Oudayas in Rabat. This temporary to the Ottoman sultans, who named nial garment for Moroccan women
exhibition takes visitors on a journey them «Fas Kaftanlar» in reference (weddings, christenings, religious
through the colors, shapes, materials, to the city of Fez. Towards the end festivals), the traditional caftan
and techniques of this emblematic of the 15th century, the caftan took transcends regions, communities,
Moroccan costume, highlighting five a new turn with the massive arrival and religions. The traditional gar-
production schools in various regions in Morocco of Andalusians expelled ment is also worn daily by Moroc-
of the country: Oujda, Tétouan, Fez, from Spain who settled mainly in can Jewish women. The Judeo-
Rabat-Salé, and Marrakech. Some Tétouan and Fez, but also in Chef- Moroccan caftan draws part of its
thirty caftans and accessories evoke chaouen, Rabat, and Salé. origins from Renaissance Spain.
the different practices used from the Over time, weaving (tarz) workshops The keswa el kebira, worn by
19th century to the present day. These dedicated in part to making caftans brides, is a genuine heritage of this
pieces reveal the richness of Moroc- A rare 19th-century Moroccan caftan in brocade flourished. Traditionally reserved know-how, and comprises three
can culture and its many tributaries, with highly sophisticated ornamentation, offered for men, it was during the Saadian pieces that are a blend of Moroc-
and provide an insight into the history for sale by the Drouot auction house (Private Photo) period that women began to adopt can and Andalusian influences.
of the caftan as a heritage rooted in of sumptuous ornamentation, as the the garment, launching a bold trans- The large dress is cut from velvet
Moroccan traditions. Each piece on rulers of the time preached a return formation that propelled the caftan in different colors depending on
display tells the story of a timeless to the fundamental sources of Islam, to the status of an icon of feminine the region: green or blue for inland
heritage and reveals the craftsman- wishing to break with the opulence elegance. Even more sumptuous, the towns, and garnet-red for coastal
ship handed down from generation to of their Almoravid predecessors, they caftan will feature new fabrics such towns.
generation. refused to use silk and gold in their as brocade. Sleeve lengths and styles, skirts
The «Aux fils du caftan marocain» garments. However, under Caliph Ibn Khaldun mentions silk garments and hairstyles also vary from re-
exhibition enriches the museum’s per- Muhammad an-Nâsir, the caftan be- and belts adorned with gold thread gion to region. For example, the
manent exhibition, and pays tribute came more affordable. woven in Fez. For men, the caftan «zeltita» is a large skirt with a dif-
to the ingenuity and creativity of the A census taken for tax purposes was made from cloth imported from ferent cut in different parts of Mo-
men and women who help shape our counted no fewer than 3,490 weaving England. Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour rocco. A vest or «gomabaz» with
national heritage and take it around workshops and more than 3,000 wea- introduced the fashion for a transpa- puffed sleeves that roll up over the
the world. This sumptuous garment, vers in Fez. It was under the Marinid rent tunic over the traditional caftan, shoulders and, finally, as a breast-
deeply rooted in the country’s sar- dynasty that the caftan took on its nicknamed mansouria after its name. plate, the «ktef», the most precious
torial habits, has undergone several finest finery, with the use of fabrics This combination gave rise to the part of the outfit, thanks to its rich
transformations over the centuries, such as brocade. now timeless takchita, made up of gold or silver embroidery. Other
but remains an essential part of the A prestigious garment, the caftan was two pieces unlike the caftan: the first inseparable accessories include
national wardrobe. Originally a prin- offered as a gift to sultans of foreign is the tahtiya and the second is called the scarf (sebnia in Arabic) and the
cely costume, it made its first appea- powers. A list of gifts sent by the fouqia or dfina or mansouria.o crown (swalef), set with pearls,
rance in the 12th century under the Marinid sultan Abu Al-Hassan to the A.Bo
Almohad reign. Sober and devoid Mamluk sultan an-Nâsir Muhammad rubies, emeralds, and gold coins.o
Friday 16 February 2024